Traveling to Bologna, Italy with a toddler: A family-friendly guide

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We recently returned from a 7-day trip to Northern Italy, and I couldn’t wait to share our experience exploring Bologna — where we were based — with my toddler son. As a mom of a two-year-old and a big believer in mindful travel, I know that planning a trip with little ones in tow takes a bit of strategy. Thankfully, Bologna turned out to be perfect for our family adventure.

Why We Chose Bologna

Bologna checked all the right boxes for us:

It’s a safe and walkable city with lots of car-free zones where kids can roam
The terrain is mostly flat, making it incredibly stroller-friendly (this is so important!)
It’s less tourist-heavy than Rome or Milan, but still full of culture and charm
Bologna Centrale (the main train station) connects easily to nearby cities, making day trips a breeze
And lastly, but perhaps most importantly, my son loves Bolognese pasta! So we knew food was not going to be a problem

Bologna is also known by three delightful nicknames: "La Rossa" (The Red) for its terracotta buildings, "La Grassa" (The Fat) for its culinary richness, and "La Dotta" (The Learned) for being home to the University of Bologna, the oldest university in continuous operation in Europe.

Since we were traveling with a toddler, we didn’t aim to check off every attraction. Instead, we planned our activities around the city’s three nicknames, focusing on beautiful architecture, delicious food, and meaningful cultural experiences.

Click here to see how and what I packed for my toddler for 7 days in Italy

What to See and Do in Bologna with a Toddler

Piazza Maggiore
This is Bologna’s main square, home to the Neptune Fountain and surrounded by historical buildings as well as the city hall. We joined a walking tour here, and learned so much about the city; it was super informative and interesting. Though it was a bit long (3 hours to be exact), it was great while it lasted — we did end up leaving early because nap time called and my son was like “it’s time to go guys.”

The Little Red Train
Originally, we planned to take the San Luca Express for a panoramic view of the city, but the 2-hour round trip didn’t fit our schedule. So instead, we opted for the shorter train loop through the historic center. Our son was thrilled regardless, and honestly, trains are always a hit regardless of the destination sometimes.

The Two Towers (Le Due Torri)
These iconic leaning towers were built in the 12th century. It was amazing to see something so old still standing so tall. We viewed them from a cozy café terrace recommended by our Airbnb host instead of climbing it because we actually learned that it wasn’t allowed for kids under 6, so we didn’t get to do it. Maybe next time!

Photo by Maria Simonova. Bologna, Italy (July 2025).

The Seven Churches (Basilica di Santo Stefano)
Dating back to the 5th century (yes, 5th!), this complex originally included seven interconnected churches. Today, only four remain. The courtyard was peaceful, and even though our toddler wasn’t interested in the architecture, he loved wandering the open space while my husband and I took turns checking it out.

The Porticoes of Bologna
These beautiful and elegant covered walkways are over 38 kilometers long in the city center (and 62 kilometers total!) and they are also UNESCO-listed. They provided much-needed shade during the summer heat and were perfect for stroller walks.

Local Bookstores & Bookstands
Not your typical tourist stop, but we found some great bookstands and stores around the city. Well, when we said we, we meant our son, because he had a blast flipping through picture books. They turned out to be great spots to take a quick break.

Little Venice
This small hidden window overlooks a charming canal. It’s nicknamed "Little Venice" and makes for a fun, quick stop.

Where to Eat in Bologna (Kid-Approved, too!)

Ahimè is known for its inventive cuisine using fresh, local ingredients.

Ahimè
A cozy, modern spot where my husband and I enjoyed a quick date night. This was easily where we had one of our favorite meals. The dishes are creative and very tasty. They change their menus regularly, so I recommend checking before making a reservation!

Trattoria da Me
A Michelin-starred, family-friendly restaurant where we celebrated a friend’s birthday. My son had the tortellini in broth for the first time, and it was love at first taste for him. It was a pretty special meal.

Mercato di Mezzo
This market is a casual spot suitable for families. On the way to the market, we discovered tigelle (small, round flatbreads that can be savory or sweet) — they originate in the Emilia-Romagna region and the local cheeseshop owner told us to try them, so we did! And let me tell you: my son ate two back-to-back! He had a few more throughout the trip, too; he called them “circle sand” (i.e. round sandwiches).

Sfoglia Rina
Hands down, the best, best, best pasta of our trip! We ordered 3 different types of pasta, including the most traditional Tagliatelle alla Bolognese, and my toddler loved it so much. He now refuses to eat pasta we make at home sometimes because his standards are much higher now.

Local cafes
Every cappuccino we had in Bologna was excellent. The pistachio-filled cornetti (or croissants) were divine. And honestly, any local cafe is great — every spot we went to in the city was amazing.

Gelato
My son tried gelato for the first time on this trip, and of course, it was a highlight of the trip. One of the most memorable gelato spots we tried was called Vero. When my son dropped his cone, they offered a replacement right away. Apparently, it's their policy if they see the cone wasn't secure. Love that kind of service!

Where We Stayed

So we stayed in a 3-bedroom, 1.5-bath Airbnb just 7 minutes from Bologna Centrale Station. We decided to go with an apartment close to the train station because we knew we wanted to do some day trips to other cities. But honestly, even if it wasn’t for that reason, we would still choose to stay at the same Airbnb because we really enjoyed our stay there! We actually shared the Airbnb with friends who also have a toddler. They were in the city around the same time and it worked out perfectly.

The Airbnb hosts were incredibly thoughtful. They stocked our fridge with water, milk, and juice, and provided us with two cribs, a baby bathtub, and even a toddler potty. Their thoughtfulness made the stay more enjoyable and memorable.

Bologna is a gem of a city, especially for families. It’s walkable, stroller-friendly, and full of charm without being overwhelming. If you’re planning a trip to Italy with little ones, I highly recommend putting Bologna on your list!

If you want to watch the full video recap of our trip, click here to go to my YouTube channel.

Feel free to drop your questions in the comments section if you have any for me! As always, thank you for stopping by Happily Ever Style.

xoxo,

Tricia

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